Lhakpa Ri is an ideal objective, remarkably
positioned just across the glacier from Everest.
It shares the historic route up the East Rongbuk
Glacier and is climbable by a relatively safe and
straightforward route. It is just over the milestone
altitude of 7,000m, making it higher than anything
outside Asia and is probably the most climbable
7,000m peak in the world.
The mountain is one of several peaks
that line the east flank of the East Rongbuk Glacier.
The summit is a prominent three-sided pyramid which
drops to the East Rongbuk Glacier to the west, the
Kharta Glacier to the east and falls steeply to
a tributary glacier of the Kangshung to the south.
The slopes from the Rongbuk an Kharta Glaciers are
relatively low angled and are linked by the Lhakpa
La pass (6,849m), which is just to the north of
Lhakpa Ri. It was from this pass, in 1922, that
Mallory and his team mates first saw the East Rongbuk
Glacier, an event well documented in mountaineering
annals.
Lhakpa Ri is a superb objective which
should appeal to climbers looking for a 7,000m summit
in a famous location. The visit to Lhasa, the overland
journey across the Tibetan Plateau, the trek in
the footsteps of Mallory and a climb with awesome
views of Everest, are the ingredients of a very
special expedition. It will also give a life-long
impression of Tibet and its people and an insight
and deep respect for the achievements of the early
Everest pioneers.
The Expedition
Climbing Lhakpa Ri involves a similar itinerary
to the initial phase of an expedition to the North
Ridge of Everest. From Kathmandu, we fly to Lhasa
and spend several days in what was the "Forbidden
City". Then there is an incredible journey
through Tibet, along the Friendship Highway before
turning south to the Rongbuk Valley below Everest.
We spend time acclimatising at base camp before
making the two-day hike to advance base camp (ABC),
at about 6,300m.
The ascent follows a shallow, snow-filled
depression on the southwest flank, ascending low-angled
snow for 600m, which steepens at mid-height to around
30-35°. After gaining the crest of the ridge
close to the Lhakpa La, we turn south and follow
the snow ridge to the summit.
After returning to base camp, we complete
the remainder of the Friendship Highway, driving
along the northern side of the Himalaya range, again
with views of Everest, Cho Oyu and numerous other
peaks. The road eventually descends to the Friendship
Bridge, where we cross into Nepal and continue to
Kathmandu.
Outline Itinerary
Day 01 : Arrival in Kathmandu.
Day 02 : At leisure in Kathmandu
Day 03 : Fly to Lhasa
Day 04-05 : At leisure in Lhasa
Day 06 : Drive to Shigatse (6 hours)
Day 07 : Drive to Xegar (8 hours)
Day 08 : Acclimatization day
Day 09 : Drive to Everest Base
Camp (5,200m)
Day 10-13 : Acclimatisation and
local exploration
Day 14 : Trek to Interim Camp (5,800m)
Day 15 : Trek to Advance Base Camp
(6,400m)
Day 16-19 : At leisure at Advance
Base Camp
Day 20 : Climb Lhakpa Ri (7,045m)
Day 21 : Spare day
Day 22 : Return to Base Camp
Day 23 : Drive to Nyalam.
Day 24 : Drive to the Nepalese
Border and Kathmandu.
Day 25 : At leisure in Kathmandu.
Day 26 : Fly Kathmandu from your
next destination.
Note:
