This is the most popular climbing / trekking peak in
Nepal. From Dingboche the mountain is clearly seen as
a pyramid of ice and rock. The mountain itself is the
extension of the South Ridge of Lhotse Shar separated
by a small col. The ridge rising to the south from this
point leads to the summit of Island Peak. Imja Tse not
only provides an enjoyable climb but also provides some
of the most spectacular scenery of Himalayas in the
Khumbu region. Seen from the summit the giant mountains,
Nuptse (7,879m), Lhotse (8,501m), Lhotse Middle Peak
(8,410m) and Lhotse Shar (8,383m) make a semi circle
in the north. The views of Makalu (8475m) in the east,
Baruntse and Ama Dablam in the south add more charm
for climbing Island Peak.
To participate with this program you must
plan on arriving in Kathmandu not later than 2 days
before departure date.
Itinerary
DAY 01: Arrive in Kathmandu
Meet and greet at Airport then you'll be taken
to your hotel. While in Kathmandu you will have time
fascinating Buddhist and Hindu temples and shrines reflecting
ancient local traditions are highlighted on our guided
tour. There's time to explore the city's many charms
on your own too. In the evening delicious traditional
Nepali well come dinner await for you. O/N in Kathamandu.
DAY 02: Kathmandu Rest Day (Prepare
for Trek)
Today you have to prepare yourself for Himalayan Odyssey.
Nepal Panorama Climbing Guide will brief about the climbing.
If you have time left, then you can have some special
shopping or you can explore around Kathmandu.
DAY 03: Fly to Lukla and trek
to Phakding.
After a very early start, and an early take off from
Kathmandu Domestic Airport, a 45 minute flight is all
it takes to propel us into the Everest region of Nepal.
The landing at Lukla (2800m) is spectacular and on arrival
we are greeted by our sirdar and trekking crew who organise
the luggage and hustle us off for tea. After a leisurely
lunch we start the trek in earnest, setting off for
a gentle walk to Phakding (2800m), a further 3 hours
to the north. The trail leads through Lukla, past hotels,
shops and airline offices to the edge of the Lukla plateau
where the trail drops to meet the intersection of the
Jiri trail at Chablung. From here the trail follows
the Dudh Kosi north through the village of Ghat and
then finally to Phakding where we spend the night.
DAY 04: Trek to Namche Bazar.
From Phakding the trail continues north up the Dudh
Kosi Valley, staying 100m above the river on it's west
bank. The trail leads us to Jorsale (2810m) where we
enter the Sagarmatha National Park, and submit our trekking
permits for checking. From here we continue on an ever-steepening
trail to Namche Bazaar (3440m), known simply as Namche.
En route we cross the spectacular suspension bridge
high above the confluence of the Bhote Kosi and the
Dudh Kosi, and shortly after glimpse our first view
of Everest, way off to the north-east. The trail to
Namche is steep and long, but eventually we reach the
remarkable Sherpa capital perched high on the hillside
and dominated to the east by the immense bulk of Kwangde
(6187m).
DAY 05: Acclimatization day in
Namche.
Acclimatisation is important before trekking higher,
and this is a scheduled stop which will allow us to
gradually become used to the effects of altitude - the
lower pressure and the thinner air. We can spend the
day by taking a side trip to Thami or Khumjung, by visiting
the National Park Visitor Centre on the hill above Namche
or by simply resting and browsing in the shops in the
town. Namche is a fascinating place simply to 'hang
out' and take in the culture of the mountains, from
the trading of visiting Tibetans to the stories of departing
mountaineers.
DAY 06: Namche Bazar to Phortse
Thanga.
From Namche we trek north-east on a direct line to Everest,
starting up the hill to the Visitor Centre and continuing
on a reasonably flat easy trail high above the Dudh
Kosi. Ahead of us we can see one of the most beautiful
mountains in the Khumbu - Ama Dablam (6856m), as well
as Everest still far off in the distance. At Sanasa
we branch off the Everest trail and head up the hill
to the small settlement of Mong where we stop for lunch.
From here it is a steady descent to the Dudh Kosi at
Phortse Thanga (3500m). This is a beautiful riverside
settlement and is our camping spot for the night.
DAY 07: Phortse Thanga to Dole.
From the river the trail initially climbs steeply out
of the valley through rhododendron forest and then continues
high above the Dudh Kosi, steadily gaining height. We
pass through the settlements of Tongba (3950m) and Gyele
(3960m) and eventually reach our camp site for the evening
at Dole (4200m). All through the day we have fantastic
views of the surrounding mountains.
DAY 08: Dole to Machhermo.
From Dole the gain in altitude to our next evening's
camp site is small, only 190m. The trail continues high
above the west bank of the Dudh Kosi and we obtain tremendous
views of the mountains at the northern end of the valley,
including Cho Oyu, as well as back down the valley to
Ama Dablam, and across the valley to Tawachee and Cholatse.
Machhermo at 4410m is a pleasant camp site with several
tea-houses.
DAY 09: Machhermo to Gokyo.
Beyond Machhermo the valley widens and the trail passes
through the settlement of Pangka before descending to
the river. From here it is a steep ascent up the terminal
moraine of the Ngozumpa glacier to the first of the
Gokyo lakes at 4650m. The trail thens levels off and
passes the second lake at 4690m, eventually making it's
way to Gokyo at 4750m.
Gokyo is a sizeable settlement with many tea-houses,
located in a delightful location on the edge of the
lake, and is the main objective for many of the trekking
groups that we will encounter. The views from Gokyo
are magnificent and tomorrow we will climb the small
hill above Gokyo village, known as Gokyo Ri, to obtain
fantastic views of Everest and Cho Oyu.
DAY 10: Climb Gokyo Ri, Trke to
Chhugyuma.
We start the day by slowly ascending to the top of Gokyo
Ri at 5350m, and are rewarded by magnificent views of
Everest to the east and Cho Oyu to the north. After
descending to Gokyo and resting we retrace our steps
to the area between the first and second lakes and take
a trail eastwards across the Ngozumpa glacier. This
takes us to the small settlement of Dragnag where there
is a tea-house. From here we will continue upwards and
camp at Chhugyuma at approx. 5000m
DAY 11: Cross Cho La to Dzongla.
We make an early start, and continue upwards towards
the pass that links the Gokyo and Everest valleys -
the Cho La. From our camp site it is about 3-4 hours
of slow walking to the pass at 5420m. Whilst this is
a hard morning's walk, we are rewarded by fabulous views
on both sides of the pass.
From the pass we descend slowly on a rough
trail to the small settlement of Dzongla where there
are a few tea-houses. We make our camp here, and have
a superb view of the immense peak of Cholatse.
DAY 12: Dzongla to Chhukung.
From Dzongla we descend steadily to the main Everest
trail at Duglha, and from here continue to descend to
the ridge above Dingboche where we obtain our first
view of Island Peak as it dominates the end of the Imja
valley to the east. We take lunch at Dingboche, the
large sprawling Sherpa settlement at 4410m, before continuing
up the Imja valley to Chhukung at 4730m. The immense
south face of Lhotse towers above the village to the
north.
DAY 13: Chhukung - Base camp-
High camp.
From Chhukung we continue in a general easterly direction
to the site of our base camp. The trail follows the
moraine of the Lhotse glacier to the snout of the Imja
glacier where it branches to the east and skirts around
the base of Island Peak. We make our main camp at a
spot known as Pareshaya Gyab at 5087m.
After taking lunch and resting we continue up to our
high camp, a further hour or so up the mountain. The
trail is well defined until we reach the area of our
high camp at approx. 5500m.
DAY 14: Ascent of peak and return
to the BC.
We set off early for the summit at about 3.00 am, and
scramble up in the dark to the snow-covered glacier
above. From here we take care as we make our way up
the glacier until we reach a broad snow basin which
leads up to the final section of the climb.
Ahead of us now is the main summit ridge
and we climb a steep snow and ice slope, using fixed
ropes, for approx. 100m to access the ridge. The ridge
is a classic and leads quickly to the east up to the
main summit at 6189m.
From the summit there are fantastic across
to Lhotse to the north, the Amphu Labsta and Mera Peak
to the south, and Ama Dablam to the west. After taking
in the views we descend by the same route, abseiling
from the ridge, and making our way back carefully to
Base Camp.
DAY 15: Spare Day
We allow a spare 'buffer' day in case of bad weather.
DAY 16: Island peak base camp
to Dingboche.
We retrace our steps back down the Imja valley, firstly
to Chhukung where we stop for lunch, and on to Dingboche
where we spend the night. This is a chance to celebrate
our success with a cool beer, and reflect upon the climb
of the previous day.
DAY 17: Dingboche to Namche Bazar.
From Dingboche we head down the main Everest trail,
passing through the settlement of Pangboche, before
reaching the famous Tengpoche monastery where we stop
for lunch. We have a chance we visit the monastery before
continuing on to Namche Bazaar. From Tengpoche the trail
drops steeply to the river at Phunki Thanga, and then
rises again to traverse high above the river on a winding
trail into Namche Bazaar.
DAY 18: Namche Bazar to Lukla.
The final day of our trek, and a sense of relief for
some and sadness for others as we retrace our steps
of the first few days along the trail above the Dudh
Kosi before turning off the main Jiri route and rising
up to Lukla. We start by descending steeply out of Namche
and shortly before we cross the suspension bridge below
Namche we get a last chance to see Everest before it
is out of sight until the next time. We lunch at Phakding
and arrive in Lukla by mid-afternoon.
DAY 19: Fly to kathmandu from
Lukla.
We return to the hustle and bustle of Kathmandu with
a 45 minute flight back to the domestic airport. Here
you will be greeted and transferred back to your hotel
in Kathmandu. Arrival times back into Kathmandu vary,
however it is usual to arrive back at your hotel by
mid-afternoon.
DAY 20: Kathmandu Valley sight
seeing.
After breakfast, we'll visit Swayambhunath temple, and
said to be 2000 years stupa on a hillock offers breath-taking
view of Kathmandu City. We will then to Visit Pasupatinath,
the national temple of Nepal and Bouddhanath. After
lunch we'll visit Kathmandu Durbar Square, Patan (Lalitpur)
- which is the oldest of the three major cities in Kathmandu
Valley - famous for its Buddhist monuments and Hindu
temples, and you can catch the traditional artisans
working with wood, stones and metals. O/N in Kathmandu.
DAY 21: Departure to the airport
for your next destination.
Today we meet again not for to go some where but to
say good bye each other and share the warm feelings
of the tour again. After breakfast we go to airport
together and be back with out our dearest guests.
Grading
This trek is strenuous. You need to have a sense of
adventure, and the willingness to walk 8 to 9 hours
a day, often at high altitude. Good physical condition
and a degree of good stamina are essential. A basic
knowledge of mountain climbing is an advantage, although
our experienced Sherpa guides will guide and accompany
you to the top.
The Climb
South - East Flank
The usual site for base camp is at Pareshaya Gyab at
5,087 m. This is not an attractive place and one has
to be careful for avalanches.
From base camp the trail goes round the
base of Imja Tse between the moraine and the mountain
before turning north-east and climbing steep grassy
slopes and small rocky steps. Following an open gully
leads to the high camp at 5,280 m.
From the high camp scramble across the
open gully and take the right hand ridge. After the
ridge straight op and cross to the glacier. Find your
way upwards, to the left side between the crevasses
and seracs. You will see a gully with on your left side
rocks and on the right side more open space. This gully
leads to the summit ridge. Be aware of falling stones
and ice.
The ridge itself is a classic and undulates
towards the main summit which is reached by a final
snow pitch.
North Ridge
Follow the Imja Glacier and the moraines by snowy slopes
op to the col at 5,700 m. Put your camp on the col.
From the col follow the ridge. This ridge is difficult
under snow conditions. Beware of the cornices. The ridge
steepens for the final top. This route is a little more
difficult than the normal route.
2 Parties could climbs from each
side and take the camps down.
Package includes:
- Accommodation on room sharing
basis on BB plan in Kathmandu.
- All-inclusive full board tented camp
trek with sleeping tent, dining tent, toilet tent,
food and bedding as per itinerary.
- All-inclusive full board trek at Himalaya's
lodges as per itinerary.
- Services of Sirdar, cook, Shera staff
and porters or yaks while on trek.
- All kitchen utensils / materials along
with tables and chairs.
- Transportation, KTM - Base Camp - KTM
of all equipment, food, staff and porters.
- Local taxes, guide & porters' insurance.
- Sagarmatha National Park fee.
- Royalty of the Peak, equipment allowance
of climbing guide, necessary equipment and clothing
for camp staff and porters.
- Common used climbing equipment. (fixed
ropes, ice screws, pitons, etc.)
- All transportation in Kathmandu as
per program.
- Domestic airport departure taxes.
Package does not include:
- Lunch & dinner in Kathmandu.
- Expenses of personal nature.
- Personal tips.
- Alcoholic beverages and canned or bottled
cold drinks.
- International departure taxes.
- Personal climbing equipment.
(Can be rented in Kathmandu)
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