The Mount Pumori Base camp can be
reached from Kathmandu - Lukla flight; and then
trekking via Namche Bazaar, Thangboche - Pheriche
and Lobuche. Mount Pumori is 7145m. High and ascent
starts at 5,300m; which is beside a beautiful small
lake from here you can get a beautiful sight of
Mt. Everest and Kalapthar at 5545m.
Camp 1 : After a
3 hrs walk you will reach camp 1 or advance base
camp 5700m. After that you will have to walk the
distance of 500m with the Elevation of 40 to 65
degrees slopes. Mount Pumori has many rocks and
mixed climb traverse, steep and expose to wind narrow
ridges, some ice walls, and one tunnel climb. Some
times you may need fixed ropes also.
Camp 2 : It starts
at 6200m. It is located on a narrow ridge; so there
is no fear of avalanches. The next 400m, Is an ice
climb with 35-65 degrees, more 5m, Is the Ice walls,
many crevasses, and the bigger avalanche danger
from big seracs hanging from the shoulder of 6500m.
Now camp 3 : It is
too windy. At the height of 6850m, from where you
can see Tibetan plateau; and you need rope here
because of many crevasses and ice walls way to summit.
After that there are two climbing ranges; one from
Tibet side and other is from Nepal side. Between
these 2 sides the Nepal side is easier to Mount
Pumori Summit. After this walk, the Summit is easy
to reach on it's vertex Pumori 7145m.
Normal route : This
is the easier route to climb this peak and most
of the expedition coteries climbed this peak so
by applying this route. As you know Pumori is not
easy as like the other mountains, there are difficult
technical parts in this route as well. We suggest
you that, you should take climbing Sherpa; and who
will guide you nicely to reach you on the top of
Pumori.
You need to have at least 3 camps
after base camp to reach the summit. The base camp
is just above Gorek Shep at the altitude of 5300m.
After base camp, you can set up first camp at the
altitude of 5,650m, around the phase of Mount Pumori
.
You should set second camp at the
ridge after the phase at the altitude of 6,000m.
The most technical part for this peak is around
camp 1 and 2. You should set camp 3 at the altitude
of 6,480m, around the corner after the ridge.
You can ascend summit from the camp
3 to the top of Pumori. Most of the climbers use
this route every year for the expedition to Mt.
Pumori to limb.
South - West ridge: Some very few
climbers tried this route, but it is very difficult
route. This route follows directly from the top
of Kalapathar and goes straight over the ridge nearly
by 75 Degree. As this route has lot of technical
difficulties; so we suggest you to use the normal
route for the Mt. Pumori and your group will comfortably
reach on its Top. For the more information please
check Himalayan Journal 1996 or American Alpine
Journal 1997.
Outline Itinerary:
Day 01 : Arrival Kathmandu & transfer
to Hotel
Day 02 : Kathmandu- Prepare Expedition
Day 03 : Expedition briefing in
Ministry of tourism
Day 04 : Flight to Lukla &
trek to Phakding lodge
Day 05 : Phakding to Namche lodge
Day 06 : Namche rest for acclimatization
lodge
Day 07 : Namche - Thyanboche lodge
Day 08 : Thyangboche - Pheriche
lodge
Day 09 : Pheriche - Lobuche lodge
Day 10 : Lobuche - Pumori Base
Camp - Camping
Day 11-29 : Climbing Period for
Pumori 7145m. [ Route Map ]
Day 30 : Pumori BC - Pangboche
-Lodge
Day 31 : Pangboche - Namche -Lodge
Day 32 : Namche - Lukla - Lodge
Day 33 : Fly Lukla - Kathmandu
& transfer hotel
Day 34 : Kathmandu Valley sightseeing
Day 35 : Transfer to airport final
departures
Cost:
